Nighttime view from the castle overlooking the city and the Tagus, in the background in light blue as dots Cristo Rei, the city blessing, 28 meters high Christ-figure before the bridge "Ponte 25 de Abril" .
night in Lisbon. Who thought it not at Fado? In those intricate, often melancholy voice acting, the only in Portugal's capital city and - can be found in the ancient university city of Coimbra - in modified form?
With the blustering cult-electric point 28 it is from the famous terrace Miradouro Santa Luzia, in the corner of his eye lichterfunkelnde the dark Tejo, down through the geometrically acting up to the Lower City Largo do Chiado, where sits a bronze figure of Fernando Pessoa in front of the famous Café Brasileira. Some tens of meters to begin strolling through the narrow, but lively streets of the Bairro Alto, which is full of small shops, cafes, bars and discos, dance halls and fado clubs. Watch is announced - here are many of the Fadokneipen overpriced, and there is a constant battle of the door staff to the tourists. Just outside the high season, the echo calls "Mister! Come in, we have a great and unforgetable Fado program "from all the doors - before which to stop, and be it only to study the menu, pretty risky. Once you get in the interior of such premises may again find, but truly professional singing fado (fado profissional ") expected, but not rare, at least out of season, orphaned many tables, the atmosphere because of the yawning emptiness little inspiring. The Bairrada wine in the "O Canto do Camões" was good, the veal as well, and the singers Alzira Caned and Idalia Maria, most responses did José Luis beautiful, soulful fado - but what took the view of the six guests in one - as Azulejos beautifully tiled with usual - for eighty Restaurant People?
that is being fought in this area in early November to every guest lit us a quick ... But somehow a vicious circle ... Further, better-known restaurants in the Bairro Alto, such as "Café Luso", "A Severa", "Adega Machado" or "A faia" are obviously in a similar situation.
Unlike the nocturnal atmosphere has two days later in the Alfama. In the "Esquina de Alfama, a tiny, folksy, rustic restaurant near the museum still young fado, fado Vadio is offered, that is, anyone can sing, who feels called to - and the atmosphere was divine, The pub was full of a crash, the air vibrating. A long, skinny, blond lanky sang passionately, also drove us who understood the text does not, the tears in his eyes, owner and singer Lino Ramos, the restless artist of this shop, rose to one and even ripped to thunderous applause, which immediately aufbrandeten, hardly a song that went over. Behind the bar, the silver-haired grande dame of the house, Ivone Dias. Whether she can still sing this evening, I asked her. Unfortunately not, came the reply, and Ivone inscrutable smile and downcast eyes, bowed, unfortunately no, because she was hoarse, and she tapped in support, crossed his arms over his chest, elegant with the index and middle fingers on the larynx. She was very moved by my desire to just listen to them sing, and for me it was very grateful. "But because you can not listen to me singing live tonight I give you this CD - especially for you," and then signed Ivone the CD, providing them with a dedication ceremony and handed it to me. - Well, around midnight, as the time drew near the (From) account, I found the CD with a 15 € charge ... Incredulous, I read that amount, because I had assumed it would be a gift ... Then I shook my head and said, even for their own comfort, "she skillfully made it so ..." was once again amazed
I few days later when I followed up at home with a trip to Lisbon Merian leader. There, I read in the article "The Search for the yearning" for a visit to the fado restaurant "Fermentação", a place is offered on the forecourt Fado for the front of the door at small tables seated guests, the following:
"Ana had flirted with violently during the performance of my companion. After their performance, they asked for her name, wrote a dedication to a CD and gave it as a gift. When we pay the bill, the gift of 30 € is reported - not without reason that even the most beautiful Fado "
. Since I'm still got off cheap, I thought. And, our Lisbon impressions in mind, nor how well it must be ordered now at Fado?
The Portuguese-English-speaking Fado Guide Lisbon, "Roteiro de fado de Lisboa (Lisbon fado's guide" - Issue November 2001, available at the Fado Museum on the Largo do Chafariz de Dentro), lists 50 Fado on premises, mostly in the districts of Alfama and Bairro Alto, but also in the Mouraria and Madragoa and in other areas. The museum is officially called "Casa do Fado e da Guitarra Portuguesa" (House of Fado and Portuguese guitar).
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